Nearby Val Pellice recalls the tormented history of the Waldensians, the largest Protestant community in Italy (Museum of Waldensian history at Torre Pellice). A little farther on is Pinerolo at the mouth of Val Chisone (the Fenestrelle fort, herb liqueurs and honey at Pragelato) leading to Sestriere, the first `second generation' European ski resort, the heart of a network of ski runs that cross into French territory. In Val di Susa on the other side stands Novalesa Abbey at the foot of Rocciamelone; almost facing it is the gloomy Exilles fort. Farther down the valley lies Susa, a Roman and medieval town, with its splendid Arch of Augustus; then the Avigliana lakes (the first public clock in Piedmont is in the medieval village of Avigliana) and the majestic Sacra di San Michele. Lastly Turin, noble and austere (see chapter on Turin for its attractions).

Let us proceed northwards. At the foot of Gran Paradiso winds the valley of Locana, with alpine Ceresole Reale bordering the Valle d'Aosta. In the range of foothills lie two gems: Ivrea (Duomo, castle, lively carnival with `battle of the oranges') and Biella (villages of Piazzo and Piano), the latter below the Oropa sanctuary. From the sanctuaries to the Holy Mounts: at Varallo Sesia, the main town in Valsesia, the Sacro Monte is indeed magnificent. At Alagna the Walser Museum records the history of this mysterious alpine people; high above, the Margherita Mountain Hut (4,559 m.) is the highest in Europe. Macugnaga is another Walser-settlement, at the foot of Monte Rosa, one of the highest mountains in the Alps, and the pearl of Ossola, itself dotted with tourist attractions: Val Formazza (Cascata del Toce-the Toce Falls), uncontaminated Alpe Veglia, Val Bognanco, Val Vigezzo with its picturesque miniature train, one of the few remaining in Italy, and wild Valgrande.